• Michael Gebert
  • Antique cars have only one place to go for a dog, Superdawg.

One hot dog in Chicago towered over all the others. Actually two hot dogs, both towering over Milwaukee Avenue near Devon: Superdawg, the Tarzan-dressed 12-foot-tall hot dog with glowing eyes, and his skirted female companion. They were nicknamed “Maurie and Flaurie,” which by an amazing coincidence happened to be the names of the couple who owned Superdawg. This weekend Maurie Berman, the 89-year-old owner of the most beloved hot dog stand in a city famous for loving its hot dogs, passed away.

  • Michael Gebert

For being an iconic dog-and-burger joint, though, Superdawg was by no means a typical Chicago dog. Instead of the classic Vienna Beef dog, they used a Sinai 48 dog from Best’s Kosher, a little more garlicky and closer to an east-coast dog, until the Best’s brand was killed by Sara Lee Corporation in 2009. (Who makes their dogs now is a closely held secret.) In any case, it’s an especially plump, 1950s cruiser of a dog, served in the trademark cardboard box with fries, and pickled green tomatoes and peppers. Some fans object to the fries and dog steaming themselves a little soggy in the box, but the melding of all those flavors is part of the point. If ever there was a total-package restaurant where you shouldn’t nitpick the details, it’s Superdawg, though it is worth pointing out that it’s not a one-trick pony; the griddled burger and the Whoopskidawg (a Polish-style sausage) are pretty terrific too. (If I’m making you hungry, note that both locations will be closed for the funeral on Tuesday.)