Ten years ago a friend came down with cholera after eating a malevolent oyster at Katsu. It happens. Despite this unfortunate event, the unassuming sushi bar on an unfashionable far-north-side street—which closes it doors at the end of the month after nearly 30 years in the business—remained in regular rotation among my pal’s favorite restaurants. That’s because Katsu was the best in the city—and I’ll fight anyone who says any different.
It does, however, have a Facebook page, where usually twice a week someone posts pictures of the gorgeous, seemingly random selection of clear-eyed fish that have arrived, packed in ice, from a purveyor at Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. Chef Simon Liew calls this his “omakase” supply, a selection of seasonal sea creatures that make up the sashimi specials and his own sushi omakase that ranges from $50 up to “no budget.”
Like the nigiri at Macku, Liew’s signature pieces are adorned with some questionable elements (yes, cream cheese). But there are plenty of more restrained options with unconventional garnishes that harmonize nicely with the fish, or at least don’t get in the way of it. Sea bream is touched with fresh ginger and a single fried garlic chip; salmon with black pepper and maple butter; botan ebi with garlic, mayonnaise, and green tobiko, the shrimp’s tail meat posed dramatically with its disembodied head.
2958 W. Irving Park 773-961-7299raisusushi.com
