I’ve always thought of grappa as something old men drink, a rough spirit with lots of burn and little flavor, like a cheap vodka. The Italian spirit, distilled from pomace—the grape skins, pulp, seeds, and stems left over after grapes are pressed for wine making—has historically been a workingman’s drink, cheap and strong. In the last several years, though, better grappa has been making its way to the U.S.; Nonino’s much-praised single-varietal grappas have been available for a while now, Chicago’s Rhine Hall has been making grappa since it opened in 2013, and there are at least a few grappa options at most good liquor stores.
The Difford’s version of the grapparita sounded more appealing, so I mixed one up, along with a grappa sour. I used the unaged grappa for the cocktails, and its mineral, almost savory flavor came through in both. Straight, it’s a clean, smooth liquor with piney notes; the aged grappa tastes similar but with more fruity aromas and caramel flavors. I also tried the limoncello over ice, and while liqueurs aren’t usually my thing, this is a nice, not-too-sweet version with a pronounced lemon aroma and flavor.
