I made no secret of how much I love Mom’s, Kelly Ijichi and Randi Howri’s yoshoku tribute to Japanese comfort food in Politan Row. But I will admit suffering some disappointment when I first showed up and learned that their soba noodles were not freshly handmade, as advertised on their online menu. That’s OK—the Spam musubi, katsu sando, and fresh handmade udon more than made up for it.
Later, after some pestering, HBFC chef Christine Cikowksi told me it’s inspired by a fresh soba noodle salad served at the late Soba Nippon in Manhattan (it’s survived by Nippon, on 52nd Street, which is still serving it). Though Cikowski says she’s come close to replicating the ponzu dressing of the original, this dish is an original. A keeper. Please say there’s more.