It’s spring cookbook season, and there’s a lot of noteworthy pulp by local authors out and about. You’ve already heard about the wonders of The Kefir Cookbook by Julie Smolyansky. In a week or two I’ll take a look at Korean BBQ by Bill Kim and Plate magazine editor Chandra Ram. There’s also Craft Coffee by Jessica Easto, which actually came out last year (I’ve been sleeping on it). But last weekend I spent some time with Risotto & Beyond by gentleman chef and fennel pollen maestro John Coletta of Quartino fame, along with Monica Kass Rogers and the late Nancy Ross Ryan.
Last weekend I settled on Coletta’s risotto with radicchio, in part because I fancied the vivid, almost bloody color it takes on in the book. The radicchio mellows in the brodo, leaving just a gentle bitterness. It has a really nice texture too, with the addition of chopped almonds. Coletta says he sometimes serves this risotto at the restaurant for private functions.
FOR THE RADICCHIO PESTO
½ cup coarsely chopped almonds, skin on or off
1 large or 2 small heads radicchio
cored and stemmed, leaves roughly chopped to make 3 cups
¹⁄³ cup extra virgin olive oil
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon finely ground sea salt
½ teaspoon finely ground white pepper
Remove the risotto from the heat. Stir in ½ cup of the radicchio pesto; reserve the remaining pesto for another use. Cover the pot for 2 minutes. Add the thinly sliced radicchio leaves, butter, and cheese and stir until creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto into a serving bowl or individual dishes. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with additional sliced radicchio, if desired, and cheese curls or shavings. Serve immediately.
