Passover isn’t until March, which is when discussion of the infinite depths of matzo ball soup always tend to heat up. So it seems a little early to turn much attention to the pairing of fat-bound matzo meal kneidlach and schmaltzy chicken broth, but matzo ball soup seems to be having a moment with the recent opening of three modern delis each with its own interpretations.
Ursula Siker’s Jeff & Judes was among the most exciting openings last year, period. It’s a Humboldt Park tribute to her native LA’s deli culture, and the mbs itself is in homage to her grandfather, “a known difficult diner originally from Long Island who would send it back if the matzo ball wasn’t big enough.”
Both Siker and Caruso’s soups remind me of the great mbs at the late Frunchroom in Portage Park, and how an ambitious chef can take regular old granny food to another level. But if you think those are weird, get a load of Uptown’s newish vegan deli Sam & Gertie’s (from the owners of the vegan diner Kalish), which will introduce an all plant-based mbs to its menu this month. At presstime Andy Kalish had yet to provide any intel on how he’ll pull this off, but I’m certainly curious.
Manny’s 1141 S. Jefferson, 312-939-2855mannysdeli.com
Kaufman’s 4905 Dempster, Skokie, 847-677-6190kaufmansdeli.com
JB’s Deli 5501 N. Clark, 773-728-0600jbsdeli.com
Jeff & Judes 1024 N. Western, 773-661-1227jeffandjudes.com
Rye Deli & Drink 25 S. Halsted, 312-602-2100ryechicago.com
Sam & Gertie’s 1309 W. Wilson, 773-293-7413samandgerties.com
Steingold’s 3737 N. Southport, 773-661-2469steingoldsdeli.com
